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Stonehenge and the IoW


I initially thought about just riding to Stonehenge, staying nearby for the night and then coming back. 

Then I realised I’d be a short ride from Portsmouth; gateway to the Isle of Wight. So I booked the an extra day off work, the ferry and a place to stay for two nights. I’ve been here before, unfortunately though last year I was knocked off my bike on the way to Portsmouth; so hadn’t ridden around. Read all about it.


This trip I tried out the Youth Hostel Association as a place to stay. It’s a charity that helps youger people especially to become active and meet others. The accomodation is varied and can be cheaper than hotel’s and B&B’s.
In my late teens I stayed in some during a motorbike touring holiday with a mate. One night we stayed in, I think, an old fort. I really wish I could remember more about it and where is was.

On the IoW my abode was an appartment, so a bit more expensive and posh.


Friday 23rd. Headwinds.


The first part of the ride was familiar; my Cornwall holiday in 2022 and the recent trip to see my cousin in Winchester had me going through Guildford then heading south west after Seale. This time I kept going westerly. It was tough going because of the constant headwind. A recurring theme for the three of the next four days.

I had sandwiches with me so at around midday I needed to find a place to eat them. I like to eat in churchyards, they are quite and most of the lanes I travel will have them at regular intervals. As was the case this time. Odiham village was close and as I entered it my Garmin said I’d be turning onto Church Lane.


I was still hungry and only made it another thirty minutes before a pub was too good an opportunity to miss.

It was The Hatch in Old Basing.


The coffee arrived quickly, but the food didn’t. So when it was finally in front of me I didn’t pause to take a picture.

It was well after 1 pm and I still had over fifty miles to go so it felt like every minute counted.

At eighty three miles I past the youth hostel. I should have called it a day but I wanted to see the stones.

A word of warning; you can’t easily get to them by bike.

At the end of the road, just past the YHA building is the A303. A very fast dual carriageway. For a short time there is a thin strip of tarmac at the edge of the road, but that soon disappears. I walked for nearly a mile on the grass verge to get off the main road and go through Amesbury. But I then had no option but the rejoin the 303. There was a cycle path/footpath for a short distance then it was back onto the road. At least it was one lane in each direction, and very congested. I was going faster than the drivers so it was safer now. I stopped the take the picture at the top of this post and then returned the way I’d come, including the walk on the grass.

I finally arrived at my overnight accommodation.


The onsite cafe had closed so I joined my dorm buddies, Tyler and Patrick for a twenty minute walk to the Crown public house. We chatted about how we came to be in the area over our meals. They seemed very impressed with the distance I travelled. Tyler was on his way to Cornwall; Patrick to Eastbourne to play in a band. You could tell we were townies; it hadn’t occurred to us it would be dark when we headed back, with no street lighting.


Saturday 24th. Rain and tech problems.


I awoke to rain lashing against the windows, the others were going to wait it out and have breakfast when the cafe opened. I had a ferry to catch so I didn’t have an option. I headed out into the storm with a plan to stop for food at Lyndhurst. I arrived nearly two hours later and chose the Tea Rooms because it was the first place I saw that was open. As I found a place to lean my bike the owner rushed out to say that exact spot was needed for a table. I looked at him, and he was serious. I couldn’t understand his haste, it was very windy and pouring down; who was going to sit outside? He was obviously expecting a sudden rush and didn’t need my custom. So I moved further down the road, to Peggy May’s cafe.

No one minded that I leant my bike against a bench in front of the establishment. One coffee and two beans on toast would do the trick I thought. I didn’t intend on stopping again.

When it was brought to my table I was asked when my companion would be joining me. He looked surprised when I informed him I’d be dining alone.

Not much to say about the next dozen miles, except that they took me to Southhampton. A very busy and congested route saw me stopped at every traffic light. I quickly felt very cold and was shivering at every pause. It was good to leave the city behind and up the pace again. It had also stopped raining. By the time I reached the Gosport area of Portsmouth I was almost in a good mood again.

A short ferry crossing and I was at the terminal for the catamaran that would transport me to Ryde.

 

I had made very good time and was very early for me booked passage. I didn’t want to risk getting to the other end of the voyage and having nowhere to shelter if the inclement weather returned so I had coffee and cake in the Pumpkin cafe. There was a brief period when the storm returned. Once this had past I started the final leg of the journey.

As I left the mainland behind the sun came out and blue skies were on display.

Once off the pier I attempted to locate my cottage. My phone had a data connection but no internet. I couldn’t use it to show me directions. I asked at the ticket office and was told others were having the same issue. The good news was that they could give me directions. Unfortunately I must not have understood, and quickly got lost. I asked again and as I neared the target it rained heavily again. Had I not been let down by technology I would have been safely in the dry.


Sunday 25th. Around the Island.


A bit of a late start, I walked to the main street in Ryde for breakfast and to do a bit of shopping.

As I rode onto the seafront at Sandown I realised this would have been a better place for my first meal of the day. The weather was glorious and the view much better.

The next town was Shanklin. And the first proper climb of the day. This took me to a cycle path and away from the busy roads I’d been on so far.


I was then on much quieter roads and taking advantage of the brilliant tarmac. So much smoother than most of Surrey and Kent.

I arrived in Ventnor and then went through Bonchurch. I must have had a reason to put this in the plan, but I don’t remember now. It did mean a taxing climb though.

All was chilled until I got to Niton. A major climb, the biggest of the day, was followed by a very sketchy descent to the Military Road. The wind really made its presence felt. I had to stay on the brakes or risk being blown all over the road. Once at the bottom I got as low as I could on the bike and stayed close the the hedge to avoid the sidewinds. Taking extra care where there was an opening that left me exposed. The traffic was light and the drivers gave me room so it wasn’t so bad. I made good time as well. 

The views were great too.

After passing signs for Brook there was another big climb fully in the grip of the gail. This made for a greater effort and the other side was by far the worst part of the day. It was much worse than the Niton hill.

I was now in Freshwater so time to eat. My first choice would have been the Coffee House, but that doesn’t open on a Sunday. So I was happy to park my bike at the Piano cafe.


After lunch I now turned eastward and had a tailwind. The route through Yarmouth to Cowes was the best section. Flowing and fast with little traffic, and more great road surfaces.

And then the Garmin computer let me down. I planned to cross Cowes harbour using the floating bridge. But when I got close I was directed away from it. I hadn’t realised I was so close and just rode on. It took me onto the Red Squirrel trail, which was nice, but not what I had wanted. 

Then on reaching Newport it took me back into Cowes to the other end of the crossing. Again I just followed the instructions until I realised my mistake. Cursing the device I now ignored it’s suggestions and used signposts to get me back to Ryde.


Monday 26th. Heading for home.


It was an early start. Pack my bag and make sure I’d be leaving the cottage as I found it. Coffee at the end of the pier as I waited for the boat.

I had contemplated getting the train at least part of the way home, if the weather hadn’t improved I would have done so. I’m glad I didn’t; I had a tailwind and the chilly start soon improved to just the right temperature. 

Once out of the city and away from the urban sprawl I made good time on fairly quite roads.

My lunch choice was Midhurst and the bakery. It was a place I knew from the ride last year. Not impressed that this time the vegan sausage rolls were out of stock. I may have over indulged on the cakes.

I didn’t intend on stopping again so I made sure of enough energy intake.

Not much more to report: a steep, long climb after the cakes was the hardest part. Then it was head down and get home.

Before I knew it I was on familiar roads which encouraged me to up the pace. I opened my front door much earlier than I had anticipated. I even had time time to do some shopping. I was really back to normality.

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